An Indian Kitchen

I've been thinking a lot about personal space and William Morris lately.  I painted many a rental apartment/house in my youth (cheap labor for the landlord) and have had a burning desire to hire painters since arriving here in Goa.  I forgot how soul-sapping it can be to live in an "ugly" environment, the sine qua non of William Morris's genius. So my drab apartment will do till late January when our time in India is up. I will appreciate all the more my lovely, personalized space when I return home, space that will be even more beautiful with the addition of Indian fabrics.

My son and I are living in a high-rent-district, an upper class neighborhood in the Indian equivalent of a mansion---in fact, it is called Peter's Mansion.  But this country is changing fast; it is seemingly in a time warp between the past and the future.  On tv, nearly all the commercials depict an India that seems to have no connection with our everyday experience here in Goa---the commercials look like people living lives in Europe or the US.  I can't even imagine how weird that must be for young Indians coming of age.  This country is making the leap from developing world to first world, seemingly in a generation.

The front of our house with my laundry (washed in bucket) hanging on line.  Could be art deco Miami, right?  We live on first floor.

 And here is our kitchen.  Note the green plastic two-stage water filter and super-charged Coleman stove for cooking.  The sink has two taps, only one of which works, with water that cannot be drunk without boiling.  I sterilize dishes in the bucket in sink.

Here is the bathroom that gives new meaning to the term indoor plumbing (note sink drain and drain in floor.  When you wash your hands your feet get wet!).  Below is "suicide shower" with a taped electrical element heating the water in the showerhead. 

So, it is probably obvious if you've been following the Indian posts that on weekends we often escape to beach "bubbles" of loveliness.  Next post, my daily walk to work.....

Goa Beach Mandala

 Last weekend, on an early morning beach walk at low tide, I came across this sand mandala.  It's kind of spooky as there are no obvious footprints, however, the sand was very hard.  How was it made?  Is this the tropic's answer to crop circles?

Cannonball tree outside my office

I was not surprised to discover the common name of this wacky and beautiful tree --- and you don't want to be under it when one of these nuts lets loose.  They are larger than a coconut and much heavier.

Apparently the force of impact causes the fruit to burst open scattering the seeds inside.  

Steve Jobs, the William Morris of our time

In Calcutta's The Telegraph, an article written by Mukul Kesavan argues that Steve Jobs was the William Morris of our time.  It is a fascinating read...it would appear that the only thing that stood between WM and total world domination was his conscience with regards to worker's rights.  And if you want to know more about that, or are an Apple devotee of any sort, I highly recommend the play "The Agony and the Ecstasy of Steve Jobs".

"Comparisons across great spans of time and space are always absurd but if you are going to look for an earlier incarnation of Jobsness, you could do worse than William Morris. In this silly season for over-the-top obituaries, I’m saying that Jobs was a latter-day William Morris and that Apple is the lineal descendant of the Kelmscott Press."

read the rest...

Yab Yum Dome Home

A perfect color purple.  The bathroom floor is painted navy with "waves" up to white on sides.  A ceiling fan at top of dome keeps it cool.

A Visit to the Shire, Yab Yum

  

William Morris fans know that WM is credited with inventing the modern fantasy fiction genre and, further, that J.R.R. Tolkien credited Morris with the inspiration for The Lord of the Rings.  In Goa, I have found The Shire, also known as YabYum Resort, where creativity, fantasy, and DIY is the order of the day!   Below is our hobbit house, with pics of a few other of the domes scattered around the palm tree glade just off the beach.  From the outside it is hard to imagine these abodes being anything other than dark and confining --- instead, next post, they are too cute for school.

Yoga is big in Goa and twice daily classes are given in the Yoga "studio" near the beach.  Breakfast included and served to your door at time of your choice.  $50/night for this slice of goofy paradise.....

Fishing at Dusk, Ashwem Beach, Goa

Grace

thanks for sharing anne....happy thanksgiving all.....

William Morris Unbound

The incredible Morris scholar Tony Pinkney, author of the blog William Morris Unbound, has recently released a book William Morris: The Blog which brings together many of his essays written over the last few years.  Unfailingly, Tony has shown us how William Morris remains relevant today, especially within the realms of politics and society.  Tony, if we were in an English pub (no doubt quaint) I would raise a pint to your success, then ask what you thought Morris would say about the Occupy Movement spreading around the globe.  I can't help but think he would be on the front lines.

Beach near Mandrem, Goa

These guys were so cool, looking completely bad-ass in their lifeguard kit that practically glowed in the late afternoon sun.  Could they match their surroundings any better!?  I'm sure they thought they had the best job in the world.

Form follows function -- all the tables and pillows/chairs arrayed in tiers facing west.

DIY tent house for the super handy

You may remember Al Moudira from last year --- the amazing hotel near the Valley of the Kings where nearly everything was crafted out of local materials or by local artisans (here and here).  Elsewhere is a bit like that...the kind of place that makes you want to find your own little plot of paradise somewhere -- mountains, beach, lake, backyard -- and build your own love shack.  Here are a few details to inspire you....

The tent has painted canvas walls that appear to be stretched on framing built with 2x4s.  The four walls butt up against a poured/painted concrete pad that has a 5" rim (that you can see on right of pic above) and that continues outside to make the "patio".  The tent top sits on the main column (three logs tied together) and is held in place with guylines.  I imagine some people could make the tent roof (here stiff canvas lined with printed cotton) but I suspect you can buy these somewhere too.  The bed has mosquito netting curtains that are attached with thin coated wire stretched between little eye hooks.

Curtain rods made from bamboo.  When "closed" they are weighted down against breezes by rod across bottom.  Lashed bamboos window "mullions".

Bamboo bathroom mirror with shower in background.  Shower is made of two floor to ceiling finished planks of roughhewn wood with a shower head and two small taps.

 Clay sconces similar to those at Al Moudira.

 Shower has a small, hot water on demand tank that is tucked in corner behind plank.  These are ubiquitous in India where showers seem to be the only fixture with hot water.

sink of rough hewn wood, matting, and stone.

A simple lounger -- nice touch are the 1x1" stiles set diamond-style on front and back.

Some more ideas here and here.

A weekend spent Elsewhere....

After a hot dusty week of work we headed to the beaches of north Goa for a little exploration and R&R.  We stayed at a magical (and hidden) little resort on a spit of land near the town of Mandrem.  (The clue is in the post title.)  The food was as amazing as the place and if I told you what it cost the extra airfare to get to India might start to seem like a bargain.

The hotel "lobby"

dining al fresco

Our little slice of heaven on Otter Creek

On the other side, over the dunes, the Arabian Sea

 Tomorrow, a walk up the beach.....

Evening walk, fishermen of Dona Paula

Putting the day's catch on ice.  In the morning the fisherwomen will carry the baskets of fish door to door selling fish to the locals.  It is mostly mackerel.

cricket on the beach