Thinking of the people of Egypt

 

  

An eternity of starry nights

 (head for scale)

What surprises one about Egypt is the sheer number of temples and tombs that are so well-preserved, in large part due to being buried in sand in an extremely dry climate.  Carved hieroglyphics and bas-reliefs are still vibrantly colored from pigments applied thousands of years ago.  One constant is the blue ceilings with gold stars, the evolutionary predecessor of those seen all over Europe (remember this Italy post?).  I love the more primitive shape of the stars, applied in geometric lines---who wouldn't want a ceiling like this in their house?  I'm told the Versace Mansion in Miami has a such a ceiling.

These particular ceilings are in the Temple of Hatchetsup on Luxor's west bank.

The God Thoth

Temple of Edfu

The God Horus

Gayer-Anderson Museum, Cairo

I know that the Egypt posts are getting old at this point but I have two more sets of pics to put up.  The first is the Gayer-Anderson Museum in Cairo, a house museum considered to represent the finest example of 17th century domestic architecture in Egypt.  The house was preserved by a British major (Gayer-Anderson), who lived there between 1935 and 1942.  He bequeathed his extensive collection of art objects and decor to the government on the condition that the residence was turned into a museum.

As always, what I love about house museums is you see exactly how normal people lived their lives (although obviously these are often people known for their exceptional aesthetic taste and artistry).  Lots of good ideas here, like the simple fringe valance above two panels of printed cotton.  You could buy an Indian tapestry just like these at Urban Outfitters.

 Mashrabiya, the architectural term which describes these traditional wooden screened windows.  One has a perfect view of street but with complete privacy.  If you remember the post which visited H. H. Richardson's famous house Stonehurst, you will see his inspired use of the mashrabiya element.

An interior courtyard...

Painted wooden mottos....

rooftop patio....

Used as set in James Bond movie The Spy Who Loved Me....

Egyptian stained glass uses plaster to separate glass.

built into corner of stairwell....it is made of stone but could just as easily be painted wood.

outdoor living....

M. S. Eugenie, Jewel of the Nile

While hundreds of passenger vessels ply the Nile between Aswan and Luxor, a distance of less than 200 km, only a few boats carry tourists on Lake Nassar above the High Dam.  The first was the M.S. Eugenie, built in 1993 in the style of a early 20th century Art Deco steamship.  The Eugenie feels so perfect I was initially uncertain whether it was a replica or a restored vessel.  It was named after the Empress Eugenie of France who traveled to Egypt in 1869 to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal.

The top deck (Eugenie is parked behind a large rock island)

 Fifty cabins, about 100 guests, average age probably around 55 (lots of retired folks living life to its fullest).  Four days, three nights cost ~$650 per person including all expenses except alcohol and tips.  Each day included expertly guided expeditions to amazing ruins in the morning and late afternoon.  Food and service was impeccable.  I want to return with my parents and children--it was that special.

 Back dining deck

 

Dining Room

One of the many cool seating areas at dusk.... 

top deck combo plunge and lounging pool

And of course it wouldn't be a cruise without towel-folding!  Here raised to a fine art.....

 

 

 

Temples at Abu Simbel

Abu Simbel just above the Sudanese border

When a new larger dam was built by the Egyptians and Russians in Aswan in the 1960s it was clear than many archeological treasures would be lost as the waters rose in the new Lake Nasser.  A global collection was taken up and with $40 million contributed by many nations, UNESCO organized a multinational team of archeologists, engineers, and heavy equipment operators to move some, but not all of the drowning temples.  The most famous of these were the two Temples of Abu Simbel.

 approach from the lake...

Over four years (1964-1968), the temple was carefully deconstructed, cut into large 20-30 ton blocks, dismantled, and moved to its new location 65 meters higher and 200 meters back from the river.  The undertaking is widely considered to be one of the greatest archaeological engineering feats in history.  In appreciation of help from the U.S. the Egyptian government later gave the New York Metropolitan Museum the Temple of Dendur which was also saved from the rising waters.

A great pic (from wikipedia) showing a model of the old (under water) and new locations of the temples.

The face of the second Ramesses fell off in an ancient earthquake.  The decision was made to leave it as it had fallen although some repairs were made to other parts of the statues as can be seen below.

The complex consists of two temples; the larger one (above) dedicated to three of Egypt's gods of the time, Ra-Harakhty, Ptah, and Amun, and featuring four large statues of Ramesses II guarding the entrance to both the temple and Egypt (don't even think about trying to invade oh Nubians of the south!  I will crush you with my superior might and godliness).  The smaller temple is dedicated to the goddess Hathor and Nefertari, most favored wife of Ramesses. 

The temple of Nefartari (if you click to enlarge you can see all the "cutting lines" of the blocks).

 

 The insides of the temples are amazing, seemingly acres of wall covered with carved and painted hieroglyphics and bas-reliefs telling the stories of Ramesses' exploits and accomplishments.  Unfortunately, no photography.  And, if you ever happen to be in Abu Simbel, I highly recommend the light show, unlike the one at Giza which is cheeeeezy....

Next, how I got here....the totally awesome boat M. S. Eugenie.

Al Moudira, magic bubble, part II

These rattan (?) chairs were being sold in Luxor so I assume they are made locally.  Incredibly beautiful.

the added painting really makes this fountain "pop"...

In a country with near zero rainfall you don't have to worry about the magic holes in your ceiling leaking....

 

and so much more: food, pool, nearby wonders of the world....Al Moudira, au revoir....